This year's Rostov-on-Don Fashion Week showcased the booming Russian fashion industry and its readiness to conquer the highest runways. Over 30 designers presented their collections, offering a diverse range of fashion items, including evening and wedding dresses, sleek men's suits, bags, hats, accessories, and jewelry.
The main trend of the event was a demand for authenticity and national flavor, with 14 designers from Dagestan standing out as the brightest stars. Each designer showcased their own unique cultural motifs, resulting in an endless stream of creative ideas.
One notable designer, Karine Ramazanova from Makhachkala, patented a print inspired by traditional carpets called sumaks. She adapted the famous Lezgian pattern into a contemporary style, becoming one of the trendiest producers of scarves and dresses in the republic.
The designers also reimagined the functionality of traditional Dagestani headgear, known as papakhas, transforming them into fashionable women's accessories. Bright green and pink fur hats effortlessly converted into handbags, and even the male-exclusive burka was reinvented as a delicate and elegant women's garment. Additionally, traditional jorabs (socks) adorned with vibrant ornaments were given a sturdy sole, creating comfortable and lightweight footwear.
The departure of foreign companies from the market paved the way for young designers and fashion entrepreneurs from all over the country. The DonFashionWeek project, led by its founder Victoria Lugovskaya, aims to assist local brands in conquering the domestic market, providing them with a platform to showcase their talent and reach a nationwide audience.
"Previously, we couldn't make it into major fashion magazines without money or extraordinary ideas. But now, they come to us," says Zaira Magomedilova, head of the Association of Light Industry of Dagestan. "Russian designers often underestimate themselves, especially the younger ones. That's why representatives of large Turkish factories frequently visit us, secretly sourcing samples from our small brands and reproducing the ideas in their collections. However, thanks to events like this, the situation is changing. Our young designers start trading throughout Russia and even go international."
Despite the successes, challenges remain for the industry. The departure of European suppliers of fabrics, leather, and accessories has forced designers to seek new domestic suppliers, although finding suitable quality materials is not always easy. There is a high demand for eco-friendly fabrics made from linen, hemp, and nettle.
Elena Bugranova, founder of the Russian Buyers Union and fashion expert, predicts that the summer season of 2024 will be transparent and romantically exposed. "Short shorts, semi-transparent materials, mesh, and patina dominate the international runways. These trends are already permeating the mass market segment and becoming truly popular."