The Calvin Klein show yesterday was one of the most anticipated events of the season, and for good reason. Not only is it rare to witness a debut during New York Fashion Week, but the industry has genuinely missed the American brand since Raf Simons' departure in December 2018. This time, all eyes were on Veronica Leoni, a 41-year-old Italian designer with a background at The Row, Celine under Phoebe Philo, and Jil Sander. Even Calvin Klein himself, now 82, made an appearance, sharing warm moments with Kate Moss and Christy Turlington, the faces of the brand's iconic 90s campaigns.
Thankfully, the show steered clear of the overused CK underwear peeking from under jeans. Instead, it showcased minimalist yet character-driven looks. Leoni paid homage to the brand's archives, reintroducing open-heel ballet flats while relying on her intuition to craft the collection. "I wanted to capture the original energy of the brand," she explained, "and explore a 24-hour wardrobe with cinematic realism."
90s Revival with a Modern Twist
The collection was a nod to 90s tailoring, featuring:
- A sleek gray suit with a shoulder-padded, collarless jacket and knee-length pencil skirt.
- Round-neck shirts paired with perfectly fitted skinny jeans.
- Loose-fit trousers and a variety of outerwear options.
- Draped knit dresses and double-breasted tuxedos.
The color palette was subdued but not without subtle pops of lemon, muted eggplant, scarlet, and metallic tones. Standout pieces included raffia fur coats worn over bare skin, satin sets reminiscent of CK's pearlized combinations, and sheer skirts layered with cashmere long johns. Evening wear featured structured bustier dresses with fringed hems, carried like accessories, and sequined chainmail gowns.
Accessories That Stole the Show
The show also introduced standout accessories, including:
- A sleek gray suit with a shoulder-padded, collarless jacket and knee-length pencil skirt.
- Round-neck shirts paired with perfectly fitted skinny jeans.
- Loose-fit trousers and a variety of outerwear options.
- Draped knit dresses and double-breasted tuxedos.
- Stylish sailor caps.
- Bags and pendants shaped like the iconic CK One perfume bottle.
These pieces are set to become the new must-haves for Calvin Klein enthusiasts.
Overall, Veronica Leoni's debut successfully balanced nostalgia with innovation, proving that Calvin Klein's legacy is in capable hands.
